Prague, Vienna, and the Czech Republic Cycling – Visit these classic cities and explore the hinterland in between.

Prague and Vienna are beautiful and filled with classical European culture and so they therefore make great bookends for a cycling trip in the countryside of the Czech Republic. Surprisingly, the countryside is filled with chateaux, vineyards, medieval sites, and a number of cultural sites. It is also naturally well preserved, especially with the work of the Greenways project.

A note about Greenways is required. Our cycling tour was developed along this corridor between Vienna and Prague and was an idea that developed after the fall of the Berlin wall in in 1989 (The Velvet Revolution to Czechs), and was finally established as a tourist route in 1995. The broad aim is create a model for sustainable regional development connected with conservation of cultural and natural heritage as well as promotion of local and regional identity. Tourist, and in this case cyclists, love it for the connection to non-profit initiatives that they can interact with and again in this case, decide where to direct a portion of their tour cost. 12% of the tour price is reserved as a contribution to 1 of 4 cultural projects that travelers will visit on this tour. The money can then be given to the preferred project of the cyclist.

More on these projects further on in this blog, the important point is that the cycling route (hiking is also available along the Greenways) is made with Czech country history and culture at its core. Going off the beaten path from Vienna and Prague one will really come away with a sense of charm, beauty, and new-found knowledge of the history and heritage of the Czech Republic.

The Czech Republic is a small country, and as a former communist bloc nation when it was Czechoslovakia, it has made great strides and yet finds itself still struggling to overcome the old communist ways. Part of the cycling route winds along the border with Austria which was the “iron curtain” itself. Plenty of souvenirs still stand; yet at the same time many sites pre-dating communism dot the itinerary. A number of chateaux and cathedrals mark many of the villages in the route. The countryside is very agricultural with lots of wheat, corn, and some sunflower fields. The Unesco towns of Telc and Cesky Krumlov are really charming with well preserved old towns and chateaux complexes. The most charming visit and stopover worthy of extra nights is Cesky Krumlov where you can walk cobbled streets, stay in historical hotels, visit its massive perched chateau, and dine in medieval themed restaurants – complete with open fire roasting pit and beer steins!

Speaking of beer, the Czech people drink more beer per person than any other country! Something like 160 liters per person per year. Of course, the beer is good and most connoisseurs know Pilsner Urquel which is widely exported now, but the original Budweiser “Budvar” is also widely available. Beer isn’t the only beverage though, as the Czech Republic produces a vast quantity of wine. The first part of this cycling tour is where most of the vineyard areas are found from Breclav to Valtice on to Mikulov. White wines are mostly found here including Riesling blanc, Petit Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon. The first night in Valtice offers the chance to visit one of the best and largest wine cellars anywhere. The old Lichtenstein family chateau in town is now a vast wine cave with excellent programs to taste wines of all varieties. A great way to start the trip even before the riding begins!

Once you begin on the bike though, you will get out into the woods by riding along a number of country paths that are dirt tracks before you move onto paved country roads. The dirt trails will pass some astonishing “objects”
such as a mini Arc de Triomphe and the Three Graces an 1825 classical colonnade with statues of the goddesses Pallas Athena, Artemis, and Aphrodite. Great picnic spots too! The overall riding is rolling countryside with few short ups and downs; riding is all country back roads, no bicycle paths really. There are few cars on these roads and many villages along the way. The roadbook will indicate when a good restaurant for lunch is possible. There are some moments of short and somewhat steep climbs, but the program is manageable by regular recreational cyclists who ride between 50 and 100 miles per week.

We use GPS handhelds fixed on the bikes so finding your way couldn’t be easier. Of course maps and cue sheets are available for purists. We also include cell phones in the tour, so self-guided riders really have it as easy as being with the guide. One note about language though is that the Czech language is not like any of the romance languages and so I had some difficulty understanding, let alone pronouncing anything. I speak French and have no problem with Italian, Spanish, and even Romanian, but I was often puzzled over this language. Having said this, I didn’t have much trouble communicating my needs though.
Restaurants I visited all had English language versions or translations below the Czech item. Tourist sites all offer an English language translation. Most importantly though, our local partner at Greenways Travel Club which is headed by the dynamic Tomas, all speak English fluently. They will check on all of our self-guided cyclists several times throughout the trip and they are also available by phone.

As you travel along you will find a number of handcrafted items made in the Czech Republic or in Slovakia for sale. Crystal is one item that is a good buy and made locally. I found a number of wonderful crystal items such as a wine decanter for as little as $15. I suggest buying these types of items before reaching Cesky Krumlov or Prague when prices will go up for the mass tourist trade.

The hotels we use are all very comfortable 3 star or better providing spacious rooms, private bath with all the normal amenities except that air conditioning is not often found, but temperatures rarely require it.
Location and ambiance are more important in the selection of the hotels, whether its personal service of the owner in a B&B or the location overlooking the main square in Telc. Each point of lodging is a new experience in culture and charm; and yes, comfort as Tomas works his contacts to get the best rooms! Beds are often large, but doubles are also usually 2 beds pushed together. If you are over 6-4; you are probably used to overhanging the bed; it will be the case here too! Strangely, not all hotel rooms have phones; but the larger hotels always do. Internet cafes are commonly found but trying to connect your laptop from the hotel will be hit and miss at best!.

Dinners aren’t included, but the added expense is really not much and what can get for not much is quite a lot! An excellent plate of Czech goulash with a Pilsner was about $4 and I couldn’t have eaten more.
Breakfasts on the hand are included and they buffets are much more than adequate for cyclists heading out such as your starting in Valtice, the owner of the B&B will make it hard to leave the vast spread she offers daily.

Coming back now to the Greenways contribution that each traveler makes. You will meet 4 different individuals who are working on their own heritage projects. Each will provide a very thoughtful and extensive presentation about their project. In each case, the passion is clearly abundant and therefore the interest to travelers is very high. I loved the interaction; the question/answers, and I was impressed with each effort. There are 2 jewish history projects underway to unbury some lost history of local jewish culture that has been lost either to time, but mostly to the haulocost. I was impressed that the non-jewish locals are the people pursuing this bit of their heritage. My favorite was another though that goes into the long history of migration of Czech people to the USA. I was unaware of the vast numbers of Czechs living in the USA, mostly in middle west agricultural states. There is obviously and important contribution to American history and development by Czech immigrants and it was fascinating.

I simply love going to places that are, to use an overused phrase, “off the beaten path”. Like Romania, this one is also a place to discover. In a way, I am starting to wonder if all that stuff we heard about the communists was totally accurate. So far, I am impressed by how well preserved so much of the former bloc areas are – and I’m speaking of the places outside of the wealthy mass tourism sites.

If you want to go but aren’t a cyclists and would rather hike, let us know.
A program is available. Also, with our buddies at Greenways, we can develop multi-sport tours with canoeing or horseback riding.
Just ask!